October and November

Current Location: Old Fort Road, Klamath Falls, Oregon, at 9 degrees F and cloudy.

1-11-03-2015 Hiking to the TowerOur new digs: closeup on the upper right is a view of the apartments from the tower trail.

I am sitting at the same desk as usual, but the view outside my window has changed.  Instead of the dark forest I am looking at open sky and the back side of Plum Hill in Klamath Falls. Life has finally shifted a bit, and Mo and I are now spending most of our time at our cozy apartment only 3 miles from town.  Yes, we still have the house at Rocky Point, decorated for Christmas, on the outside at least, and still comfortable for Rocky Point stays now and then.

Putting up the decorations (2 of 10) We also have our little cottage in Grants Pass, where we also spend time, working on the property, enjoying the little cottage and the green grass that pops up when the first fall rains come to the Rogue Valley.

Cottage before dirt leveling (34 of 40) It is all part of the transition from living in the woods, plowing snow, driving 45 minutes each way to the grocery store, and our plans for the future, living in mostly snow free Grants Pass.  We chose Grants Pass because of the lack of snow plowing and shoveling days, the proximity to the ocean, and the ability to travel north or south on I-5 when we want to soothe the hitch-itch that strikes often.  We are gypsies.  That travel bug is ingrained, and not likely to dissipate any time soon. 

Hiking to the tower with Melody and Mattie (1 of 1)-5View of Klamath Falls from the tower trail near the apartment

The apartment in Klamath Falls is an interim stop, at least that was the original plan.  At the moment, I feel so comfortable and cozy here, enjoying it so much that I don’t think I will ever want to leave it.  I love the Klamath Basin.  Here on Old Fort Road, we are at the edge of the high desert, with tall ponderosas and a few Doug firs around, but the hills are also covered with sage.  Love that smell, love that air, you all know I love the desert. 

Each of our places has its own special feeling.  Rocky Point for the huge cool forest in the summer, the beautiful refuge just a short walk from the house, the birds, the deer.  It is a wonderful place to live in many ways.  Grants Pass is wonderful in spring and fall, ten to twenty degrees warmer than either Rocky Point or Klamath Falls, with good shopping just minutes away, and yet a lovely rural feeling on our little piece of land that was once part of a walnut grove more than 100 years old. 

Old Fort Road is part of the magical basin, with views of Mt Shasta, the Klamath River, the dry winter air, and as stated before 10 to 20 degrees cooler than Grants Pass in the summer.  I am glad that at the moment I don’t have to choose any one of these places over the other.  Of course, the MoHo always waits as well, with the road to the desert, to the ocean, to other mountains always waiting for us.  It may be a bit complex at the moment, but it is so good and I feel incredibly lucky.  And thankful.

I keep waiting for life to settle in a bit, for things to slow down.  I have waited since mid October when we returned from Ireland, all through the month of November, and here, finally, on the last day of November, I have some time that isn’t allocated to anything else.  I can write.

I began this post as usual, with a visual cruise through my photos.  I have to admit I was a bit shocked to realize that I haven’t written a thing since we got back from Ireland, six weeks ago!  Geez. I do have some good reasons.   IMG_5337Just a couple of days after our return from Ireland, best friends Maryruth and Gerald drove up from California to spend a long weekend with us at Rocky Point.  Daughter Melody was starring in the musical Chicago, playing Velma Kelly, and they wanted to see the show.

Chicago the Musical (36 of 300)Chicago the Musical (226 of 300)The final performance of the show was amazing, and the reviews reflected what a wonderful job the Linkville Theater did with the staging, the casting, the dancing, and of course the music.  It was wonderful.  I was amazed at how a small community theater could put on a production as lavish and complex as Chicago.  Fabulous.  And not just because my daughter had a major role. Lower Klamath and Tulelake NWR (20 of 27) Lower Klamath and Tulelake NWR (22 of 27)We had a fabulous weekend, visiting the Lower Klamath Refuge where Judy volunteered this summer, enjoying the gorgeous skies and the birds. We shared good meals and lots of talking and laughing and fun.  It is so wonderful when friends can visit.  Next month we will go south to visit them and share in Maryruth’s mother’s 90th birthday celebration.  Elsie has been in my life since I was 18, and is like family to me.  Looking forward to seeing everyone at the big gathering.

Kayaking Pelican Bay (3 of 46) A few days later, Mo and I managed to get out on Pelican Bay for another gorgeous paddle.  With the fall migration in full force, there were so many birds out there.  Gorgeous skies and perfect weather are part of the Klamath Basin wonder in October.  Late September and October are the very best months to be here, in my opinion.  Nearly perfect, and no mosquitoes.

installing the cistern (13 of 17) We spent a few days in Grants Pass, for an exciting project on the property.  With a low GPM well, Mo decided that our solution would be to add a cistern, rather than taking the chance on a new well.  The cistern holds 1750 gallons, is filled automatically by the well pump, then the water is pumped from the cistern through the pressure tank to the cottage.  Now we can water the trees and small lawn during the summer without fear of drawing down the well too much.  Cottage before dirt leveling (15 of 40)

There are 27 trees on the .89 acre, several of them are gorgeous old oaks and a couple of pines and firs that are more than 100 years old.  Tree work was in order, and it turns out that the guy who ran the backhoe for the cistern installation was also an excellent arborist.  He did a great job on our trees, removing dead branches and making it much safer. He also removed 5 huge stumps that were still in place from tree removals prior to our purchase of the property.

moving with Don and Dan (17 of 19) Then it was time for the “big move”.  Late in the month, Mo’s brothers drove down to Rocky Point to help us with the heavy lifting.  Dan and Chere came from Beavercreek near Portland, and Don came all the way from Spokane.  I have no idea how we would have managed without them, short of hiring some expensive movers, which we promised both brothers that we would do when it comes time for the next move.

don dan and dogs We had fun in the midst of the moving stuff, and I did my best to cook good meals and make sure that both homes had food and beds for everyone, even though said beds were in transit.  Dan and Chere’s two dogs were especially helpful, making sure that everything done just right.  They also provided a bit of entertainment and company for Mattie, who has developed a great love for big dogs.  Most of the time, they know how to play with her and like Judy’s Emma, will lower themselves down to her level for playtime.  It is fun to watch.

Apartment A as we settle in (2 of 16) By November 1, our target date, almost everything we needed to be comfortable in the apartment was moved and we settled in. We spent five beautiful days doing the “nesting” thing, enjoying the sunshine, the smaller space, all the little things that can make moving to a new place fun and exciting.

Apartment A as we settle in (7 of 16) As the main cook, I was a bit concerned about my new kitchen.  Compared to Rocky Point, my current apartment kitchen is about the size of my big counter in RP!  I discovered that a small kitchen has some advantages:  I can reach all the drawers from one standing position, the floor is a quick wipe up rather than a major mopping event, and without a dishwasher, running a sink of soapy water as I cook keeps things in line.  I am actually enjoying it, although I still sometimes open four cupboards before I remember exactly where I have stored a particular item.

Another fun thing about the apartment is that we actually have two.  One for living, and the one next door for an extra guest bedroom, storage of “stuff” and best of all, an entire dining room and living room for my sewing, craft, and quilt room!  I can make a mess and don’t have to keep cleaning it all up mid project.  I do love that part.  In RP I did my sewing on the dining table which required lots of bringing out and putting away of stuff when meal times approached.

Hiking to the tower with Melody and Mattie (1 of 1)-3 With the early November sunny weather, I took some time to explore places to walk nearby.  Daughter Melody  and grandson Xavier live in another apartment in the complex and it is fun to walk down the path to her door and go for a spontaneous walk together. 

IMG_5359 Granddaughter Axel and her room mates also have an apartment here, and just last night Mo and I were invited to dinner at her place.  This family compound thing can be pretty nice at times.

Mo has had these apartments for years, and decided last year that property management companies and weird renters were no fun at all. Now it is an inside deal, everyone pays their rent on time and pitches in to keep the place looking nice.  It is a good place for us to be while we transition, and I get the benefit of being closer to my daughter and grandkids.  Mattie at Mills Beach (8 of 41) Mattie at Mills Beach (12 of 41)Mattie LOVES the beach!

At last, with the major chores of moving behind us, it was time for a quick trip to Brookings.  The MoHo was waiting patiently in Grants Pass and we needed a break.  Seems as though the only way to get a break from chores is to leave home where there are no chores! 

IMG_5373 We had a great three days, enjoying the clearest skies I have seen in a long time at the ocean.  Judy had mentioned that Harris Beach SP would be closed to camping this season, so we didn’t even bother checking.  We decided to stay at Beachfront RV Park, on the Harbor.sunset and sunrise at Beachcomber campground (11 of 12)

It was so much fun to listen to the surf all night, and to watch the waves right outside our front window.  One morning we drove up to check out Harris Beach, and were surprised to discover that the campground is still partially open, albeit without reservations.  As usual, the front view row was full.  We were glad that we did something different this time.

morning beach walk (2 of 16) I loved taking Mattie for walks right out the door to the beach.  It did rain on one day, but that was the day that we had scheduled some maintenance for the MoHo generator.  Seems as though the fuel pump gave out.  Brookings Harbor RV Repair had good reviews, and Mo decided that a trip to Brookings was worth it to get someone we could trust for the repair.  They did a great job and I would highly recommend them for this kind of work.

sunset at Harbor (17 of 23) With a few days of gorgeous beach time and quiet afternoons in the MoHo reading and napping, we were rejuvenated and ready to return to Grants Pass.  We hauled the tractor from Rocky Point to the cottage on our way to the beach, and Mo was ready to make an attempt to level the huge pile of dirt left behind from the cistern installation.

Cottage after dirt leveling (3 of 5) She made quick work of that pile and got most of it leveled and moved in just one day!  We raked  and moved a LOT of rocks, and then seeded the sticky red soil with a good fall mix, hoping that it will take before spring. 

Back to the apartments with a load of firewood from our stash in Rocky Point, and we settled in for the rest of the month.  I enjoyed cooking and sewing a bit, going for walks with Mattie, visiting with kids, and doing a little bit of shopping in town (takes 8 minutes to get to the main intersection of Klamath Falls!).  First snow at the Apartments (3 of 17)

The day before Thanksgiving, we got hit with the first snow and some really cold temperatures.  It is still white out here, and Mo was really smart to haul the tractor back from Grants Pass so that she could plow the apartment parking lot.  With just a tiny walk to shovel, we got the snow removal job done in record time.  One BIG benefit of not living in Rocky Point.

First snow at the Apartments (7 of 17) By Thanksgiving day, the skies were clear, and the temperatures were in the single digits.  It was a great day to travel over High Lakes Pass on Highway 140 to Shady Cove, where daughter Deborah  and her sweetie Bob hosted a fabulous Thanksgiving dinner for us, and for Melody’s family, and Bob’s parents, who live in Rocky Point. 

Mo, Melody and Robert, Deborah, and Bob carving the turkey All I had to do was bring the candied yams!  Such fun having daughters who take on the big family celebrations sometimes and being only a guest.  We had a lovely day, with sunny skies and a warm cozy home to enjoy. 

Front row: Sharon (Mo), Sue, Axel, Melody, Xavier Back row: Jack, Bob, Jean, Deborah, Robert and Mattie watching it all Instead of driving all the way back to Klamath Falls, Mo and I opted to take the short drive to the cottage and spent the night there before returning home to the apartment the next afternoon.  thanksgiving travels With a shortage of groceries in the Grants Pass fridge, we decided to go out for breakfast.  Sitting at the warm and cozy dining room at Elmer’s, with the sun pouring in through the windows, the fire crackling in the fireplace, and a fabulous breakfast, I felt that crazy happy feeling that comes without warning.  I do love that feeling so much, can’t make it happen, can’t really explain it, and it comes quite often ever since I first noticed it while hiking in Joshua Tree last winter. Later we actually managed a little bit of shopping on Black Friday, something I usually avoid like the plague.  However, most of the stores we visited mid morning in Grants Pass were not busy at all. First snow at the Apartments (2 of 17)

Home now, settled in and cozy with a nice fire going, office space all set up and comfortable, quilting and card making projects waiting in the apartment next door.  Life really IS good.

 

 

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10-04-2015 Last day in Ireland

St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-28 As we fly high over the Atlantic Ocean on our way home, (I wrote this post from the airplane) it is fun to roll around in my thoughts a bit, examining what stands out most for me from the last two weeks.  Surprisingly, the last day we spent in Ireland was also a highlight, and that will be the next story.

Park-Inn-by-RadissonIn Belfast, the night before our day in Northern Ireland, Mo and I skipped going out into the seedy streets of the city and opted instead for dinner in our hotel.  It might have been the very best dinner of all for me, with succulent baby back ribs, corn on the cob, cole slaw, and sweet potato fries, all done up high end chef style.  Wow!

Belfast to Dublin (1 of 1)-2 The next morning, we were on the road at 8:30 as usual, and with Dublin just over 100 miles south, didn’t expect much.  Our route was along A1, the very fast, very smooth, very nice “flyover” between the two cities, but again, within minutes of crossing the border back into the Republic of Ireland, we all cheered.  It was nice to see the Gaelic signs again and the castles dotting the landscape which seem to be missing in Northern Ireland, at least the parts that we saw. St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-5

Isabella stopped again at one of her little trip extras at an historic site with one of the most magnificent Celtic crosses in Ireland.  The ancient monastery on the edge of the Boyne Valley was founded in A.D. 521.  Although none of the original buildings are still there, there are three high crosses and the round tower that all date from the 10th century. 

St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-11 St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-14 The crosses are beautiful, intricately sculpted with biblical scenes.

St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-26 The cemetery site was wonderful, with graves marked back some hundreds of years. 

St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-20 The round tower seems to have been the treasury as well as the belfry since the records indicate that it was burned in 1097 along with all the books and treasure of the monastery.

St Buite Monastery (1 of 1)-27 It was a lovely place to visit on a beautiful sunny morning after our somewhat dreary days in Belfast.

We arrived in Dublin around noon, with plenty of time and unbelievable weather once again to explore the city and see one of the most important things that we missed on our first time around.  We walked from the hotel, via O’Connell Street across the Liffey River toward Trinity College, beyond Gaston Street and down Kildare Street to the entrance to the National Museum of Archaeology.

The Last Day in Dulbin (1 of 1)-6 What surprised me most was how different the city felt from our first day when we explored it on foot.  After two weeks in Ireland, we had a much better sense of how things worked, and how Dublin was put together as well.  On this beautiful Sunday afternoon, the city was absolutely teeming with life and people, there was some kind of demonstration across the bridge and people literally thick everywhere.  Walking in Dublin requires concentration, the Irish walk very fast, at least in the city.

The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-34To our delight, we arrived at the Museum at 1:59 only to find out that on Sundays it was only open from 2 to 5PM.  How incredibly lucky!

I couldn’t help thinking of Erin as we perused the magnificent displays.  She does such an amazing job of documenting these world class museums.  I can only hope that the photos I took are as good as I think they are and that the camera, set on the “hand held night shot” setting, caught the beautiful detail of the art and archaeology that we experienced.

The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-9 The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-12 The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-19 The gold “hordes” were magnificent, dating from the Bronze Age around 1200 B.C.  I enjoyed the extremely well done interpretive displays, and got a real kick out of image of a person draped in gold.  It must have been incredibly heavy to wear.

The current special exhibition of Brian Boru, Irish King who brought the Celtic tribes together and defeated the Vikings in the late tenth century was impressive.   The name had been bandied about throughout our entire time in Ireland, and it was good to see this famous king with some kind of perspective about when he lived and the great battle for which he became famous.

The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-24 Precious religious pieces from the 12th century were beautiful, including this gorgeous silver chalice and the relic cross that allegedly once held a piece of the original wooden cross of Jesus.The Archaeological Museum (1 of 1)-26 However, nothing I have seen can quite compare with the special display Kingship and Sacrifice, the story of the Bog Bodies of Ireland.  Preserved for centuries and in some cases millennia, in the boggy peat lands, are the bodies of people who were killed somewhere around 300 B.C.The Bog Bodies of Ireland (1 of 1) It is incredible to look into the faces of real people who lived thousands of years ago.  It is an unforgettable experience.Hiking to the tower with Melody and Mattie (1 of 1)

The Bog Bodies of Ireland (1 of 1)-11We were impressed with the tasteful and respectful way that the remains were displayed.  The mood is somber, respectful; the lighting subdued. The written material is displayed on the exterior of simple circular enclosures that contain the softly lit preserved bodies in glass cases. The Bog Bodies of Ireland (1 of 1)-9 Mo and I were both enthralled with the kind of painstaking work required by archaeologists to retrieve everything from the peat bogs. We read with fascination how archaeologists have determined what each person ate before they were killed as well as what they ate for several months prior to their death.    Here is a link to more extensive information about the Bog Bodies of Ireland

Ireland is 17 percent peat land, only Finland and Canada have a greater percentage of peat.  I have mapped organic soils, knew of fens, peat bogs on a slope but really had no understanding at all how these thick peat deposits formed over bedrock and on hills.  I loved the detailed animated video of the development of these peat soils on this landscape.

When our own bodies finally wore out and we left the museum, we walked with the huge happy crowds toward Temple Bar to look for a good pub to have one last glass of Guinness and a bite to eat.  The Last Day in Dulbin (1 of 1)-7The Last Day in Dulbin (1 of 1)-11 The Temple Bar area was teeming with tourists.  We found an outside table at Gogarty’s, where the music was loud and lively, but certainly not Irish.  A sign proclaimed music to start at 10:30 PM until 2 AM.  Not for us.  We still enjoyed sitting there for a time where we had one last plate of crispy chips and watched the people walking by.  The Last Day in Dulbin (1 of 1)-8 It was easy to pick out the tourists: they were walking slowly and gawking up at the buildings.  The locals walked fast and never looked up at all, and were outnumbered by the tourists at least 3 to 1.

Back to the hotel, we actually had time for a short nap before our farewell dinner at the hotel with the group.  Once again, it was just OK, but gave Isabella the chance to give us instructions for our morning departures and to say goodbye to everyone.

This morning when we woke it was raining.  Actually dark and drizzly and raining.  Just such amazing timing!  even 12 hours earlier would have seriously messed with our 7 mile walk about the city yesterday.  Breakfast was included, and our group didn’t have to leave until 8:30 am for the airport.

Dublin airport is really quite nice, but the security level is definitely time consuming.  Isabella had warned us that three hours wasn’t too much and that we would need to be ready.  She got us as far as the first check-in kiosk and then we were on our own with a few other travelers to negotiate the security checks, two of them even before you get to Customs, the tax refund kiosks, US Customs, and then two more security checks in the US Pre Screening process.  Shoes and even iPads out four times!  Then more passport checks with some kind of screening machine before we finally made it to our gate.

Before entering the fray, Mo and I stopped in the main part of the airport to fortify ourselves with one last Irish Coffee.  With only 7 Euro left, it wasn’t enough for the coffees, but I did manage to find a trinket at the Duty Free shop just before our last gate.  We left Ireland with no excess pounds or euros.  Meaning money pounds.  I won’t know about personal pounds until I get home, but even with the food we have been eating, I am reasonably certain that all the walking (always much more than 10,000 steps per day according to the FitBit), the pounds added will be minimal.

Once on the plane, it pulled away from the gate right on time.  Perfect.  I was impressed.  Until the pilot informed us that we were overweight and would have to return to the gate to offload cargo and burn up some fuel before we could take off based on the conditions.  Bummer.  We finally pulled away from the gate 2 hours late, so what would have been a 9 hour flight became 11 hours on the plane.  At least they brought us water and let us get up and about to use the bathrooms.

Once again, we are satisfied with the GoAhead experience. Although the focus on education isn’t as strong as some other travel companies, we were lucky to have an excellent tour guide who taught us much about the country. I would love the  luxury of staying in one place long enough to really explore an area, and do hope to do that when I visit Italy with daughter Deanna in the future.  For now, however, I am at a time in life where I have no idea if I will ever get the chance to return to Ireland.  I would rather see as much as possible in the time I am here.  GoAhead kept us moving, with only 2 or 3 nights at the most in one place, and days packed full with activities. I can’t think of any of the sights I would have chosen to miss, but now that I have seen a good portion of the country, I do know which places I would chose to return.

A tour like this is a bit like a cruise, it gives an overview, and a taste, and if you want more there are other ways to do that.  The hotels were OK, and some were quite nice.  The included tours were good, the excursions that we chose were excellent.  Of course, another highlight for us was the Newgrange Tour which I researched and booked myself.  I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that.  I am so glad I took the time to study a bit  and booked that tour a couple of months prior to our trip.

We will be in Portland tonight, and we are both so ready to get back on the road to Eugene to pick up Mattie!  Joanne has sent a few photos and stories of the time they spent, and it is wonderful to know Mattie has been loved and coddled and so well taken care of.  Now we have to hope that she still remembers us!  Tomorrow, after a good night’s sleep at the Radisson Portland Airport we will once again have the little dog safely tucked between us for the long trip home.IMG_5329

10-03-2015 Belfast, the Titanic, and the Devils Causeway

Ireland Day 13 and 14

Good morning.  I took a little break from the Ireland posts for a few days.  Currently in Rocky Point the skies are partly cloudy, the temperature this morning before daylight is a balmy 50 degrees F with rain coming tonight and tomorrow.  Much needed, although the timing could be a bit better.  It is Halloween, and the rain is set to begin around 5 this evening.  Bummer.Kayaking Pelican Bay (33 of 46)

Our home.  Pelican Butte reflected in Pelican Bay on a gorgeous fall afternoon.

For us, the weather has been perfect, almost. We have been moving part of our home to Mo’s apartments in town, leaving the other part here at the big house in Rocky Point.  Mo’s brothers were fabulous, Dan and his wife coming from the Portland area and Don coming from Spokane to help us do the heavy lifting.  moving with Don and Dan (1 of 19) Original plan was to simply use the pickup and trailer, but after many days of sunshine, rain was forecast for our single moving day, so we rented a U-Haul. 

don and dan don dan and dogs

moving with Don and Dan (13 of 19) Good plan!  We never could have done it otherwise, and we never could have done it without all the great help we had from Mo’s wonderful brothers, and the dogs of course.

After the move, the sun came out and we slipped out on the creek for a gorgeous fall kayak.  Kayaking Pelican Bay (2 of 46)Brother Don, who builds his own very fine wooden kayaks, was less than excited about our older kayak, since it developed a big leak in the back end, and he spent much of the trip bailing with a sponge.kayaking on Recreation Creek with Don (21 of 26)

But those are other stories to come later.  I still have a few more tales of our trip to Ireland to complete. 

Belfast continued: On Saturday morning we woke once again to impossibly good weather, with a bit of cloudiness, but no rain in sight.  We had prepared for this trip, knowing that Ireland was always rainy, knowing that we would have to deal with raincoats and umbrellas and be willing to accept that there is a price for all this green. 

Belfast from the Bus (1 of 8) Somehow God and Mother Nature smiled on us for the entire 15 days we spent in Ireland, with an unheard of two weeks without rain except for that little spitting shower we encountered at Newgrange early on in the trip.

1-10-03-2015 Belfast The day began with a bus tour of Belfast rather than a walking tour. 

1-10-03-2015 Belfast1 Since the city is not exactly charming, I didn’t mind that much, especially when we saw the graffiti, and the giant fence between a Catholic and a Protestant neighborhood to prevent them from throwing bombs at each other. 

1-10-03-2015 Belfast2 All the guides proclaimed how peaceful things were now, how wonderfully calm it was and yet the depression and sadness in the air was palpable.  I can imagine, like most big cities, there are wonderful aspects to Belfast, but we didn’t really have time to explore in depth.

Belfast Titanic (1 of 32) After our bus tour, we took in the Titanic Belfast, the world’s largest Titanic museum located at the port of Belfast where the Titanic was built. If you click on the link to the museum, you will see some rather impressive moving graphics. The videos on the website are very good, showing what I tried to manage with my phone to much less success. Belfast Titanic (12 of 32) The museum is huge and glitzy, and quite Disneyesque,  There are several floors of excellent displays relating to the design and building of the great ship, as well as its demise.  There was a cafeteria and a restaurant, a bar and a gift shop with lots of Titanic memorabilia for sale.  Belfast Titanic (21 of 32)

In spite of how well done and obviously expensive the museum was, the commercial aspect of the whole thing really bothered me.  Let’s make a bunch of money on the crash of a ship and the loss of all those lives.  It didn’t feel like a memorial, but more like a Disney ride.  Belfast Titanic (19 of 32) The museum is part of the Northern Ireland attempt to increase tourism in Belfast, which still lags far behind that of the Republic. Still, riding the little cars that followed a track through the darkness to the sounds of the rivets pounding steel was fun.  The museum does an excellent job of showing the complexity of building a great ship in the early part of the 20th century.Belfast Titanic (23 of 32)

However, we had something much more wonderful in store for us that afternoon, the finest reason of all to visit Northern Ireland, an excursion to the Giant’s Causeway on the Atrim Coast.  Just a little over an hour north of Belfast, the Causeway is a magnificent exposure of huge hexagonal basalt columns that resulted from ancient lava flows from fissures in the underlying limestone.

Belfast Devils Causeway (48 of 49) Quoting from the UNESCO website:

The Giant’s Causeway and Causeway Coast is a spectacular area of global geological importance on the sea coast at the edge of the Antrim plateau in Northern Ireland. The most characteristic and unique feature of the site is the exposure of some 40,000 large, regularly shaped polygonal columns of basalt in perfect horizontal sections, forming a pavement. This dramatic sight has inspired legends of giants striding over the sea to Scotland. Celebrated in the arts and in science, it has been a visitor attraction for at least 300 years and has come to be regarded as a symbol for Northern Ireland.

The property’s accessible array of curious geological exposures and polygonal columnar formations formed around 60 million years ago make it a ‘classic locality’ for the study of basaltic volcanism. The features of the Giant’s Causeway and Causeway Coast site and in particular the strata exposed in the cliff faces, have been key to shaping the understanding of the sequences of activity in the Earth’s geological history.

Belfast Devils Causeway (15 of 49) The visitor center was excellent, filled with fascinating displays that we chose to forego in favor of the real thing.  With just under three hours to spend, we wanted to enjoy the hiking, the views, and the geology, although I  would have  liked to see the displays if there had been time.Belfast Devils Causeway (17 of 49) Belfast Devils Causeway (27 of 49)

We had just enough time to walk the trails to the famous part of the Causeway so often pictured in photographs, with hundreds of people playing on the steps of the columns and crawling around with delight. Belfast Devils Causeway (25 of 49) It might have been nicer if not so crowded, but I guess that is also the price to pay to visit a World Heritage UNESCO site on a sunny Sunday in early October in a land where it has been raining for months.

Belfast Devils Causeway (37 of 49) Belfast Devils Causeway (38 of 49) Once we passed the most popular area, and continued along the narrow trail, the crowds thinned a bit and we had time to drink in the magnificent views of basalt flows, columns, the red interbedded laterites, and basalt chimneys.  Again, it was an exhilarating and beautiful hike, and the area is managed extremely well with the visitor center built into the side of the mountain and using renewable resources for power.

Belfast Devils Causeway (43 of 49) It was a wonderful afternoon, with the sounds of the sea and crazy wild trails to follow along the rocky coast. 

 Belfast Devils Causeway (23 of 49) Mo and I talked about this as I was writing, and for her, the Causeway was one of the highlights of visiting Ireland, and for me it is still a toss up between the Causeway and the Cliffs of Moher.  I would suggest not missing either if you choose to visit Ireland.

Note: Since I am already nearing the end of my monthly data usage allowance, with 13 days left to go, the link to the photos on SmugMug will be added to this blog at a later time.  Check back if you want to see them, or remember to go to my SmugMug photo page with the link listed in the left sidebar of the blog.

Next: Leaving Belfast, we return to Dublin, and our last day in Ireland

 

10-02-2015 Sligo to Belfast via Derry

Ireland Day 12

The next morning dawned foggy, and we traveled north toward Yeats grave at the church at Drumcliff, near the base of another forgotten important mountain….geez.  Ya think I should just give up on this?  LOL.  With the thick fog, we could barely see the outlines of the mountain, but Isabella brought out photos for us to get the idea.  I left this part in just to remember how hard it was to remember everything as we were actually traveling.  The mountain is called Benbulben, loved by Yeats and chosen as his final resting place.  Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (41 of 68)

Standing at the tomb of Yeats in the midst of the magnificent collection of Celtic Cross tombstones was perfect in the fog.  Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (19 of 68)  We saw the oldest Celtic Cross still in existence, used in the early days of conversion to teach the Celts the gospel.  Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (22 of 68)The shop at Drumcliffe was another gem, and I wished I hadn’t left my wallet and cash locked up in the bus.  I am really trying to keep from buying “stuff”, especially since I don’t have suitcase room anyway.Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (21 of 68)Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (28 of 68)

A few miles north of Drumcliffe we again made an unscheduled stop at a Neolithic site.  Creevy Keel was constructed around 3,000 BC, with a court cairn, and a beautiful portal with the portal stone still intact.  Seems as though the Druids use this site often for prayer and ritual. 

Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (51 of 68) Isabella loves the site, and always tries to show it to people who are receptive.  However, she refused to enter the passage, or go near the portal stone, saying that the “energy” of the place was difficult for her.   Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (44 of 68) Listening to her talk this way, I understood that even though she is a good Irish/Italian Catholic, she is very much connected to the old ways as well.

Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (63 of 68) After our morning stop, our route meandered northward toward County Donegal, famous for the Donegal tweeds, and also quite popular with the Irish because the estates are bigger, the houses more spread out, much like semi rural areas in the US. Daughter Deb asked about how folks live, but I have to say I don’t have a clue.  Traveling through a country like this, on a tour, or even in a rented car of your own, and visiting the beautiful sites that are the tourist destinations, or even the destinations for those on local holiday, doesn’t really  give much of a clue what actual daily life is like.  My sense, however, is that it isn’t all that different.

Derry to Belfast (107 of 127) What I have noticed from watching the news, from reading the papers, and from many of Isabella’s comments, is that the Irish are very fond of their great literature, their artists, their poets and writers, their playwrights.  In spite of all the unrest and the violence between the Protestants and the Catholics, it seems to be a gentle place.  The apparent ethic is a commitment to the environment and “green” politics and actions are everywhere.

Derry to Belfast (110 of 127) On our tour of the western part of the country, we saw a bit of homeless, but more like a person or two here and there on a bridge who had imbibed too much.  In Belfast, it is a different story, but more on that later.  After just two weeks, I would say Ireland is a gentle country, with wonderful friendly people everywhere.  Everyone is kind and willing to help with directions and conversation.  The big “thing” here are the pubs and one is encouraged to go into the pubs and strike up conversations with the locals, but that hasn’t been as easy as they say.  Much of the time the pubs are filled with the tourists, and locals are hard to find.  In order to get a better handle on what it is like to live here, you would have to come here and stay awhile, and actually have enough time to sit in a pub and become a regular, buy some rounds, and then talk to the locals.

At the moment I am 32000 feet high over the Atlantic as we fly home to the USA, and after so many hours the brain is not exactly brilliant. Still, it is a good time to write, and better than waiting till we get home when I know we will be crazy busy.  I did so well managing to write every single day of the trip in real time that now it is extremely difficult to attempt to recreate days past from memory.  These kinds of trips seem to do that.  So much happening so fast that it is hard to track it.  Especially here on the airplane with the photos tucked away in my carryon in the overhead bin.  I cant even use them to trigger the memories.

But I’ll do my best.  Derry and Belfast are in Northern Ireland.  It has taken me almost the entire three weeks to even come close to really understanding the separation between the two countries and how they came to be. 

Sligo to Derry via Drumcliffe (68 of 68) Derry changed all that.  When we crossed the border into Northern Ireland, there wasn’t any real border to speak of, unlike years past before the Peace Agreement.  Still, there is a palpable difference.  More than just the fact that the signs are no longer in both English and Gaelic, and the roads are measured in miles.  There is something in the air that feels different.  The farms are bigger, more really big farms rather than the sweet family farms we have grown used to with their small cottages and charming yards.  In Northern Ireland, all the way from the border, through Derry, and Belfast, and on south back into the Republic, there is an obvious gentry and separation between the have’s and the have-nots.Derry to Belfast (17 of 127)Derry to Belfast (21 of 127)

Derry itself was a surprise.  Until this visit, I remembered Bloody Sunday only vaguely, but when we began our tour of Derry with a local guide on our bus for a short time, the story unfolded with harsh clarity. Derry to Belfast (48 of 127) Isabella stepped aside for a time as the raven haired blue eyed young Irishwoman with the strong brogue told us the story of “The Troubles”, and we disembarked from the bus to stand on the site of Bloody Sunday massacre in 1972.  It was the beginning of The Troubles, when the British police killed many people who were demonstrating against the discrimination against the Catholic population by the British Protestant police in power.  The British claimed that the demonstrators had started the ruckus with bombs, but now, many decades later they have recanted and at last apologized to the families of those killed, stating that the killings were wrong and unnecessary.  There will eventually be some kind of compensation but that is still in the works.

The Story of Bloody Sunday is a harsh one.  This afternoon, many days after we visited Derry, I am still somewhat confused and haunted by this long complex chapter in Irish history.  Searching the many facets of the IRA, of the rebellion, the Troubles, and Irish historical timelines is like going down a rabbit hole.  One thing leads to another and before long the photos are not processed and the blog is not written.  If you want to go into it more deeply, here is a link from Wiki to get you started.

Derry to Belfast (24 of 127) Derry to Belfast (25 of 127) In this part of Derry, there is an area called Free Derry, where protestors are given a platform for free speech and demonstrations, and there are many sad murals around the squares protesting the terrible happenings during those decades.  President Clinton was instrumental in helping to reach the Good Friday agreement in 1998 proclaiming peace.  There are 6 counties that chose to remain loyal to the British crown, and the rest of Ireland is now the Republic of Ireland.  All of this is incredibly complex, and the discord between the British and the Irish goes back centuries rather than just decades.  I find it hard to really understand why any of the counties would want to remain with Britain rather than be part of the Republic of Ireland, but Britain was not about to let go of the largest industrial city and the best port on the island of Ireland, so after so much difficulty, there was finally an agreement reached between the two countries.

Derry to Belfast (33 of 127) Derry to Belfast (34 of 127) We enjoyed a walking tour of the city walls, with more stories of the history of the town with 50 names.  Called Derry, then changed to Londonderry by the English, then back to Derry after the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, the best name is “The Walled City”.  The walls were built by the British to keep out the wild Celts who wanted to eliminate the British from Ireland.  Derry to Belfast (38 of 127) Derry to Belfast (47 of 127)

Our guide is proud of Derry, and its efforts toward peace, claiming that they have worked hard for that peace, and although there is still a definite separation of Catholics and Protestants in the  city, she said it has changed a lot, with mixed marriages becoming more common and more collaboration between the two sides.Derry to Belfast (78 of 127)Derry to Belfast (82 of 127) We walked across the Peace Bridge, designed and opened in 2011 as a monument to that peace process, with its symbolism of hands reaching across the river between the protestant side to the south and the catholic side on the north.

After the bus portion of the tour, we walked the walls of the city, Derry known as the “walled city”.  The Brits built the walls after they occupied the city in the 1200’s and the Celts refused to give up their land and kept causing trouble.  The walls were built so well that they were never breached, hence another name for Derry, The Maiden City.  Walking the walls was wonderful, and trying to absorb all the history of the area was challenging.

Derry to Belfast (90 of 127)Derry to Belfast (84 of 127) Walking across the bridge from the Catholic side of the city to the Protestant side, we explored the historical fort site at Ebrington.  The fort is no longer in use, but the city of Derry is developing the site as a celebratory place for parades and gatherings to honor the peace process for which their city has become renown. Derry to Belfast (88 of 127)

I have to share one of my favorite murals of all time, from the walls of the old fort.  Look closely. Derry to Belfast (89 of 127) Derry to Belfast (91 of 127) Derry to Belfast (92 of 127) Derry to Belfast (93 of 127)After the official tour, Mo and I spent some time wandering the inner city, looking for food that wasn’t one more “self serve” cafeteria, and found an interesting looking place called Nando’s.  Derry to Belfast (71 of 127)Derry to Belfast (61 of 127)Derry to Belfast (55 of 127)It is mainly chicken in an upscale fast food sort of place, where you order your food at the counter, but then it is delivered to the table.  The food is spiced by a pepper called peri peri, from Africa, and the theme of the restaurant is Portuguese, and represents Portuguese sailors traveling to Africa and bringing home great spices.  Derry to Belfast (57 of 127) It was interesting, and I loved the great food, all fresh and spicy.  I had a quinoa salad with peri peri and Mo had some great wings that were pretty darn spicy as well.  It was a nice break from all the generic even though excellent choices at the self serve’s.

Derry to Belfast (106 of 127) Leaving Derry, we continued toward Belfast, via the new superhighway that is a collaboration on the part of both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.  There are other examples of this kind of collaboration, including wireless communications and electrical power for the entire island of Ireland.  Derry to Belfast (114 of 127) Again, the landscape was dominated by large industrial agriculture, and as we approached Belfast, the ambience of heavy industry colored much of what we saw.  There are big steel mills in Belfast, and at the moment some of them are going down and there are going to be several thousand people unemployed as a result.

Derry to Belfast (118 of 127) Belfast itself felt crowded, dreary, and not at all inviting.  We approached the city center, with Isabella pointing out various landmarks along the way through heavy traffic.  I would imagine that seeing Belfast for the first time from this perspective may have colored our impression of Northern Ireland, but it definitely did not feel as charming to us as our previous 12 days in the Republic.

Dinner on this night in Belfast was included, but as is often the case with these included dinners the venue was less than optimal.  We were in the beautiful pub, but in an upstairs room, with the chairs so crowded that we could barely lift a fork, and the noise level so loud that hearing anyone talk was next to impossible.  The food was OK, however the service was horrendous. 

Derry to Belfast (121 of 127) Our hotel was right downtown, and Isabella regaled us with all the possibilities for our evening, but by the time we got to the hotel, which was actually quite nice, we knew that if we were going to get out, we would have to do it quickly.  We decided to go find the Crown Bar, one of the most beautiful pubs in Ireland according to the guidebooks, but the walk entailed negotiating lots of construction, and many men hanging around drinking, or lying around on the sidewalks drinking.  I have no photos from this night walk through town because I didn’t feel comfortable at all carrying my camera around with me, or even the phone.

The Europa Hotel was considered a must see, a place that the Clintons frequented among other world dignitaries, and we walked there, but it was just a big fancy hotel lobby with a bar and wasn’t all that inviting.  We tried walking back to the Crown, but it was so loud and so crowded we couldn’t even get in the doors.  Instead we settled for an Irish Coffee in our hotel pub where we had previously had dinner, and were happy to avoid the streets and get back to our room.

Derry to Belfast (124 of 127)The Park Inn hotel was actually quite nice, and we enjoyed the room with a bed that was probably the most comfortable of the trip.Derry to Belfast (125 of 127) Derry to Belfast (126 of 127)

The link to the rest of the photos of the part of the day from Sligo to Derry is here

Another link to photos of Belfast is here.

Next: We see the Belfast Titanic Museum and another high point of Ireland, The Giant’s Causeway.

10-01-2015 Galway to Sligo

Ireland Day 11 Galway to Sligo

01 Galway to Sligo (31 of 173) This last three days have been intense to say the least.  It is a bit like visiting Yosemite, The Grand Canyon, and Yellowstone in three consecutive days.  Crazy, and yet on a two week trip to Ireland, when we might not ever return, I wouldn’t have wanted to miss any one of these beautiful landscapes, so it is worth it.

01 Galway to Sligo (9 of 173) This morning when we woke in Galway, the fog once again shrouded our hotel and Galway Bay.  I didn’t sleep much last night, who knows why.  Something that seems to be a problem for me is getting all the “stuff” charged.  The camera is a battery hog, so I do have to get those lithium batteries (I have 3 thank goodness) charged up, most important.  Hmmm…I am talking like our tour guide, with her strong Italian accent always saying “Most Importanta!”  It has become a bus joke. The other bus joke has to do with her fluency with the language.  She is doing an excellent job, and speaks several languages, but sometimes when speaking to us, she will forget the exact word for something and now when she hesitates, the entire bus choruses the word to her in unison.  Silly, but if you are on the bus for long periods small things become incredibly entertaining. 

01 Galway to Sligo (11 of 173) The original plan was for a leisurely drive along Galway Bay, but with the fog, the driver chose to take the more direct route directly to Connemara. Our destination was the Connemara Marble Factory, where the beautiful green Connemara Marble (actually it is very hard granite) is quarried nearby and then fashioned into beautiful jewelry.  The finest is the deep green Ireland Jade, but several other green colors are also quite beautiful.  I enjoyed the demonstration by the factory manager, with all the beautiful raw material washed down so we could see the colors and then views of the polished sides as well.  Gorgeous stuff!  Reminded me a lot of the “jade” that is found in the far northwestern part of California, where I picked up a gorgeous polished piece that still graces my garden. 

01 Galway to Sligo (4 of 173) We enjoyed the tour, and the prices for the beautiful jewelry in the showroom were better than any we saw any time later in Ireland.  Definitely worth buying at the factory if you like the jewelry.  I found a sweet small keepsake shamrock fashioned in the green jade that will be my Ireland memento, small enough to fit in the suitcase. 

01 Galway to Sligo (13 of 173) I mentioned to Mo that I had thought that Connemara was a large park, not simply a marble factory, as I watched the foggy landscape roll by.  As we entered County Connemara, however, the fog began to lift ever so slightly and we got a glimpse of the beautiful mountains that surrounded us as we traveled through the Inagh Valley.  Home of the movie “The Quiet Man” with John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, we passed the Quiet Man Bridge featured in the movie and stopped for an obligatory stop at a replica of the cottage where the movie was filmed.  Actually the movie was filmed at both the original cottage as well as the replica because the local people were tired of all the movie folks taking over their village so they built the replica in a more remote place.  I guess that movie has been re-digitized, so I think it might be fun to rent it.

01 Galway to Sligo (25 of 173) The skies magically cleared more and more as we continued north into the “peated land”.  Even on rolling hills there is up to 15 meters of organic peat soil that has been used as fuel in this part of Ireland.  The peat is cut into bricks with a large knife, stacked to dry, and then stored for winter much as we store firewood in the west.  In the midst of the peat land, there are turloughs. 

01 Galway to Sligo (27 of 173) A turlough, or turlach, is a type of disappearing lake found mostly in limestone areas of Ireland, west of the River Shannon. The name comes from the Irish word “tuar”, meaning dry, with the suffix “lach”, meaning a place (in an abstract sense). The “lach” suffix is often mistakenly spelled and/or thought to refer to the word “loch”, the Irish, Scottish Gaelic and Scots word for lake. They are found in Irish karst (exposed limestone) areas. In the United States we have karst topography in the southeast part of the country and in Florida, where we often hear news of sinkholes that are common in karst areas.

The turlough features, however, are almost unique to Ireland, although there is one example in Great Britain in a place called Llandeilo. The turloughs are of great interest to many scientists:  geomorphologists are interested in how turloughs were formed, hydrologists try to explain what makes turloughs flood, botanists study the unusual vegetation which covers the turlough floor and zoologists study the animals associated with the turloughs.

 01 Galway to Sligo (30 of 173)It was a fascinating landscape, made even more so as the wild glaciated granite Connemara Mountains became visible as the fog lifted completely and was replaced with brilliant sunshine.  Another amazing sunshiny day in Ireland, something none of us expected, and incredibly rare.  Even more rare, is the run of sunny days without rain that have graced every single day of this tour.  Incredibly lucky for us!

01 Galway to Sligo (32 of 173)We stopped at an overlook near Lough Inagh Lake for some photos of the fabulous reflections of the mountains on the silky smooth water.  There must be gorgeous trails to explore throughout this park, and again, I would love to have the time to stay here for a week or more to explore, hike and bike.  Then again, it probably would be raining, as is did all summer, with the poor Irish sad about daily rain and no summer at all this year.  They seem to be as excited as we are about this Indian Summer reprieve that just happened to show up for our visit.

01 Galway to Sligo (35 of 173) Our destination was the Kylemore Abbey and Castle, a jewel beside a lake backed up by the beautiful mountains.  Kylemore was built quite recently, finished in 1871, a song of love from William Henry to his beloved wife.  The view of the Abbey is probably another one of those iconic Ireland views that most people have seen at one time or another.

Later: I knew this would happen. I am lost. I left off last writing about our trip through Connemara and Kylemore Abbey.  At the moment, it is 1AM in Belfast and neither of us can sleep.  Mo is reading so I thought maybe I would try to catch up.  My mind is a mushy blur!  Worst part of this is that my usual method of recreating the memories in my mind is unavailable to me.  Two 32 GIG cards for photos, and a couple of days ago I had to switch out cards.  All the previous photos are tucked away safely.  No photo reminders.

01 Galway to Sligo (44 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (48 of 173) Kylemore Abbey has such a great story.  I suppose I will simply link to it when I write the blog, because it is really worth reading, but probably not worth trying to recreate.  Click on the link to read about it in more detail. First it was the site of a hunting lodge, where Mitchell Henry took his beloved wife Margaret.  She loved it so much, he bought it for her, and then built this magnificent castle for them and their 9 children.  Sadly, she only lived there for four years after its completion before she died from dysentery caught while they were traveling in Africa.  Yeah.  Dysentery.  We take a lot for granted when we travel nowadays, such as antibiotics!

01 Galway to Sligo (60 of 173)The house is quite impressive in that way of castles, and nicer than the Medieval castles we have seen so far, and probably a lot warmer.  Even more magnificent than the castle, however, were the gardens.  Long winding paths for a mile or so in each direction along the lake were planted with trees from all over the world.  Walking under the shade of these gorgeous trees, with views of the mountains and lakes was so restful.

The house was sold to another couple, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, much less romantic and wonderful than the first.  The Manchester’s were gamblers, and the wife was constantly changing the castle, removing much of Margaret’s beautiful marble work and replacing it with the heavy woods that are still there today.  They gambled the house away, and it fell into some other uses before finally becoming the Abbey that it is today, and now home of the Benedictine nuns. 

At Kylemore, the nuns reopened their international boarding school and established a day school for local girls. They also ran a farm and guesthouse; the guesthouse was closed after a devastating fire in 1959. In 2010, the Girl’s Boarding School was closed and the nuns have since been developing new education and retreat activities in addition to crafting items for sale in the Kylemore gift shop. 01 Galway to Sligo (55 of 173)01 Galway to Sligo (58 of 173)

Some especially interesting pieces in the Abbey were the tapestries, vestments, and paintings that were hidden by the Benedictine nuns while they were in exile in Belgium during the during the 16th century when Irish Catholics were under persecution by the protestants in control.

01 Galway to Sligo (81 of 173) We also loved the little church that Mitchell built for his wife after her death to honor her.  It was done in Gothic style, but all the decorations were lighthearted, with no gargoyles but only angels and flowers and vines.  It was beautiful, with pillars made with four colors of marble from the four provinces of Ireland.  01 Galway to Sligo (74 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (76 of 173) Just down the path from the church is the small mausoleum that contains the remains of Mitchell and Margaret.  Nearby is a triangular stone that is said to grant wishes if you can manage to toss a pebble backwards and get it over the stone.  Mo succeeded! 

01 Galway to Sligo (82 of 173) At Kylemore, there is a magnificent Victorian walled garden, with a perennial border like those I used to study in my English gardening books back in the days when I could actually grow something.  I do miss that Northern Idaho soil and climate.  Spokane  and the Inland Northwest is probably one of the best gardening sites I know of.

01 Galway to Sligo (94 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (98 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (106 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (112 of 173) We had plenty of time at the Abbey to enjoy the peaceful environment, have a snack and a coffee, do plenty of walking and take photos.  It was the perfect amount of time because when it was time to load up in the busses, I was completely ready to sit back and relax.  I have been wearing the fitbit, and Mo and I have been averaging much more than our 10,000 steps per day!

01 Galway to Sligo (119 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (120 of 173) Driving north we meandered along Killary Harbour, the only true fjord in Ireland, a place where the mountains meet the sea and there is no active river feeding the water.  01 Galway to Sligo (131 of 173) Of course, at the moment I can’t remember the name of the fjord, or the name of the town that was at the head of the fjord that experienced something like a huge flash flood just a few years ago, that wiped out the hotel and much of the town.  I have to look that one up as well, since Isabella referred often to the thought that no one really understood what actually happened or where the water came from.  Remember…no rivers there.  Just the shallow rocky slopes of the Connemara granite all around, reminding me a lot of the rocky parts of Southern Utah that generate huge flash floods when there is nowhere for the water to go and no infiltration.

01 Galway to Sligo (133 of 173) Along the shoreline where we stopped for photos of the fjord were some Druid trees.  Isabella seems to be quite receptive to sharing some of the Old Religion stuff, although she is fairly subtle about it  She made sure that we knew these were Druid trees, and to many of the people on the bus, had to explain that yes, the Druids are still around, and highly active in Ireland.  It is an earth religion, honoring the trees especially.  Isabella talked often of how the early Catholic monks so easily converted the Celts to Christianity because they kept many of the Pagan traditions and incorporated them into their rituals.

01 Galway to Sligo (165 of 173) 01 Galway to Sligo (167 of 173) As we continued north we came to one of the more delightful small towns along the way, the port village of Westport.  With an entire half hour to explore this wonderful town, it was a bit frustrating to get back on the bus.  There were shops that were full of really interesting crafts, weavings, art, and sidewalk cafes. 

We explored a real supermarket, with all sorts of wonderful fresh food, including fresh game meats, and many kinds of Irish butter.1-10-01-20105 Galway to Sligo

Ah yes…the tour thing.  Still, at least we got to enjoy it a bit and decided if we ever came back to Ireland, it would be another place to hang out for more time.

As we descended in elevation from the Connemara mountains, approaching the city of Castlebar, the landscape again began to shift.  The houses looked a lot bigger and the entire area felt quite affluent.  It felt much like the Bay Area of California.  Fewer little cottages, and a lot more quite large houses with solariums and gorgeous large estate like yards.

Although Mo and I have enjoyed the amazing clarity of the air for the last ten days, around Sligo that started to shift as well.  It looked as though there was a forest fire, and I asked if that ever happened in Ireland.  Oh no, Isabella reassured us, but the smoke that we saw and smelled was from the burning peat, the major source of fuel in this part of the country.

IMG_5287When we arrived at our hotel in Sligo, it was almost dark, and once settled in to the very strange very modern very brightly colored Glass House, we took to the streets to find something to eat.  Although the hotel had a restaurant, it was time for something different and we at least wanted to see a bit of the town along the river.  The pub was dark and much like all the others, so we passed it by, wandering down an area called the Italian Quarter.  Perfect.1-10-01-20105 Galway to Sligo1

The whatever it was named restaurant…(by the time this gets to the blog I will have the photos and will get all the names right)…. Bistro Bianconi was rated 4.5 stars by Tripadvisor and the smells emanating were enticing.  IMG_5299 We had a wonderful dinner, Mo had pizza and I had Spaghetti Napoletano, with Caesar salads to start and a great glass of Malbec.  We dined next to a nice couple from the tour, and noticed many others found their way to this restaurant, a nice break from all the Irish fare.  Even so, the Caesar salad was more Irish bacon and some other meat than lettuce.  I am getting really hungry for a LOT of greens and fresh veggies.

IMG_529801 Galway to Sligo (9 of 11) The hotel, right along the river, seemed like a big cruise ship, but was comfortable enough once we settled in.  Instead of 3 twin beds in a row, this time we had a huge king, and plenty of room to spread out with our “stuff”.  Although it was the only one night stop, so we really didn’t need to spread out that much. I was afraid the bright colors might keep us awake, but after our great day, and a great meal, with such a comfortable bed we didn’t have any trouble at all.

It is always fun trying to figure out the plumbing in other countries, and Ireland is no exception.  I couldn’t figure out how in the world anyone would get to the actual water tank portion of the toilet.  They seem to be installed directly in the wall, and the top of the area over where the tank should be is completely closed in.  Would have loved to talk to someone about this.

1-10-01-20105 Galway to Sligo2 The incredibly deep tubs are wonderful for a soak, and are so long you could slide right down to your chin, but what a bear to get in and out, especially with just these wiggly glass doors to hold on to.  Of course, the heated towel racks are a great luxury, but don’t do very well as handles.

For the rest of the photos for this amazing day, click here.

Next up:  North from Sligo, visiting Yeat’s grave at Drumcliffe, and leaving the Republic of Ireland to enter Northern Ireland.